Where to buy

Hamfests. The best place to buy used equipment. You can inspect, test (sometimes), and negotiate in person. Bring a dummy load and a power meter if you can.

QRZ.com classifieds. The largest online ham radio marketplace. Seller ratings and callsign verification provide some accountability. Payment via PayPal Goods & Services provides buyer protection.

eHam.net classifieds. Smaller market but dedicated amateur radio community.

eBay. Wide selection but prices tend to run high. Buyer protection is strong. Be cautious of sellers who do not know what they are selling.

Local club email lists. Often the best deals because there is no listing fee and the seller is a known member of the community.

Facebook groups. Active marketplace but buyer protection depends on payment method. Use PayPal Goods & Services, not Friends & Family.

What to check

Before buying (remotely)

Ask for current photos including the display powered on, the serial number label, and any cosmetic damage.
Ask about modifications. Modified radios are worth less because mods may introduce problems and you do not know the modifier's skill level.
Check the serial number against stolen equipment databases if available.
Research the market price on QRZ sold listings and completed eBay sales. The asking price is not the market price.
Ask about the reason for selling. "Upgrading" is good. "Intermittent problem" is a walk-away.

At the hamfest (in person)

Power it on. Does the display work? Are all segments illuminated? Dark segments indicate display failure.
Check the VFO knob. Spin it. Is it smooth? Does the frequency track consistently? A scratchy or jerky VFO indicates encoder or potentiometer wear.
Check every button and switch. Push every button. Turn every knob. Non-functional controls indicate internal problems.
Listen to the receiver. Connect an antenna (even a short wire). Does it receive? Is the audio clean? Background hiss is normal; crackling, popping, or intermittent audio is not.
Transmit into a dummy load. If the seller allows it, key the transmitter into a dummy load and check the power output. Low power output may indicate failing finals.
Check the cosmetics. Scratches are cosmetic. Dents indicate the radio was dropped. Smoke residue indicates the radio lived in a smoking environment (corrosion risk to contacts and switches).
Smell it. A burnt smell indicates a component failure, possibly repaired, possibly not. An ozone smell indicates arcing. Either is a red flag.

What to avoid

"Untested" or "as-is" with no return policy. This means "I know it is broken but I do not want to say so."
Radios with modified finals. The most common modification is power increase, which often means the finals are running beyond their design limits.
Radios with water damage. Corrosion from water exposure may not be visible externally but will cause progressive failure.
Radios significantly below market price with no explanation. If a $1000 radio is listed for $400, something is wrong with it.

Fair price guidelines

Used amateur equipment typically sells for 50-70% of its original retail price, depreciated by age and condition. A 5-year-old radio in excellent condition sells for about 60% of original retail. A 10-year-old radio sells for about 40-50%. Vintage equipment (30+ years) prices depend on collector demand and condition rather than original retail.

Radios that hold value: Elecraft (strong brand loyalty), Icom IC-7300 (high demand), Collins vintage (collector market), Drake vintage (collector market).

Radios that depreciate fast: Chinese radios (Baofeng, Wouxun — too cheap new to have used value), MFJ accessories (quality reputation limits resale), previous-generation Japanese flagships (superseded models drop fast).